This barrio gets all the reviews of the cool, bohemian part of town.  It also has the modern art museum (MAMBA) and the contemporary art museum next door.  I began in the central plaza, which is charming.


The plaza is full of café tables, where I was having my elevenses, café con leche y dow medialunas (not to be confused with croissants, although the shape is similar, they are more like rolls)

The modern art museum had a special exhibit of Ana Gallegos, whose work I really liked.  A lot of it is short films, mostly of older people, very sensitive documentary.  I am not quite sure if this vehicle/exhibit was her work or not but it was great.



The whole exhibit was called “A Place When You’re Old”, which is what I am looking for, so I guess I found it.

There was also a room full of incredible drawings, which I think were also by her, but am not sure.  I want to go back anyway because I didn’t get next door to the contemporary art because my snack had worn off.  Even though the flower seller outside the museum strongly recommended I go see it.  I felt I would appreciate it more after lunch, which I found at a great place down the block, with fabulous tapas, very Spanish.


The one on the left is a Spanish tortilla (potato omelet and the best I ever had, which is really saying something) with roasted red peppers.  On the right we have rolled anchovies and salami slices.  Now I know I have to go back to the museum.  Because after lunch I felt I should walk down to the history museum instead of seeing more art.  But when I got there it was closed due to an electrical problem in the building, which the guard said, “Well, the man came to fix it the other day, but it is still not working, so I can’t really say when we will be open..”  Luckily, Bus 10 goes by this neighborhood.  So I was able to buy fruit and yogurt for breakfast on the way back to the air conditioned apartment.